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When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family completely astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.